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How Jim Ward’s Gauntlet Built the Modern Piercing Industry

by Hella Cliques
September 22, 2026

In November 1975, inside a quiet residential apartment in West Hollywood, an army veteran and former commercial artist named Jim Ward quietly opened the doors to Gauntlet. It didn’t look like a standard retail storefront, nor did it carry the neon flair of a traditional tattoo parlor. Yet, that modest apartment space marked the official birth of the world’s first commercial business dedicated entirely to body piercing.

Before Gauntlet, professional body piercing as a standardized, sterile craft simply did not exist. Piercing was an underground, word-of-mouth subculture loosely preserved by small networks of enthusiasts, practitioners of fetish subcultures, and self-taught innovators. If you wanted a non-earlobe piercing in the early 1970s, you usually had to construct your own equipment and rely on a courageous friend.

Re-Engineering Medicine for the Underground

Ward’s breakthrough came through collaboration with fellow body modification pioneers Doug Malloy and German tattoo artist Horst Streckenbach. Together, they realized that if piercing was ever to move out of secretive home sessions and into mainstream acceptance, it required strict hygiene, specialized tools, and body-safe jewelry.

Because no commercial suppliers made body piercing tools at the time, Ward turned to medical supply catalogs. He adapted stainless steel surgical instruments for body modification:

The Pennington Clamp: Ward recognized that this triangular-jawed medical forcep, originally designed to hold sponges during surgery, provided the ideal slot for a piercing needle to pass cleanly through tissue while holding the skin steady.

Captive Bead Rings: Ward pioneered the use of smooth, implant-grade metals and modified ring designs to ensure jewelry could heal comfortably in fresh piercings without sharp edges.

From Apartment Secret to Global Movement

What began as a tiny, private appointment-only operation quickly outgrew its initial West Hollywood footprint. Demand exploded as word spread through California's counterculture scenes, pushing Ward to open a proper commercial storefront on Santa Monica Boulevard, followed later by expansion into San Francisco and New York.

Beyond performing piercings, Gauntlet served as an educational hub. Ward launched PIRCING FANATICK, a newsletter that published safety protocols, technical diagrams, and healing guidelines, effectively training the first generation of professional body piercers across the globe.

When Gauntlet eventually closed its doors in the late 1990s, the landscape of body modification had been permanently transformed. What started as an experimental setup in a West Hollywood apartment established the technical, hygienic, and aesthetic foundations of today's multi-billion-dollar body piercing industry.